How to Create a Country Cottage Garden

Driscoll estimates that a professional installation of this project would cost around $10,000, while the average do-it-yourselfer could expect to spend somewhere in the area of $2,500. (She also says that shrinking the size of the planted area and choosing less expensive plants could reduce this figure even further.) On a difficulty scale of 1 to 5, with "5" being the most difficult, Driscoll rates this project a "2", explaining that the fence is a relatively simple design that requires minimal labor.

Step One: Building the Fence

The fence is constructed of redwood and wire. Driscoll chose 6" x 6" posts for the design, despite the extra cost (4x4s are somewhat less expensive); she explains that this larger size recalls the feel of an old-time fence and is more in keeping with the country look.

Figure A

To get started, building contractor Rod Mahoney sets the posts, then uses a circular saw set at 30 degrees to smooth the sides of each one (figure A).

Figure B

The tops of the posts are mitered and cut with a handsaw to give them decorative detail (figure B).

Figure C

The upper rails are leveled and secured in place using penny-galvanized nails (figure C).

Figure D

The top edges of the rails are positioned four inches below the point where the tops of the wire arches will reach, which will allow the arched design to be visible (figure D).

Once all upper and lower rails are in place, Mahoney paints all wood with diluted green paint (50 percent water) that matches the home's shutters. The watered-down consistency of the paint creates subtle variations in color and has a slightly faded appearance, as if it's been exposed to the elements for some time. Next, the wire--called arched top clad garden wire--is stapled onto the posts using plastic-coated galvanized staples. This completes the construction of the fence.

Figure E

The arbor (figure E), with a pitch identical to that of the porch roof, features 6" x 6" posts, galvanized malleable washers (for ornamentation), 2" x 8" rafters with 2" x 2" cross pieces and 4" x 4" rails.

Step Two: Building the Paths

To get the informal look desired here, gravel is chosen for the pathways (it's also less costly than brick or flagstone). First, the paths are marked with an environmentally safe, water-based landscaping spray paint sold in most home supply centers. Then, the area is excavated, creating a four-inch-deep ditch that is slightly wider than the gravel portion to allow room for the edging that will hold the gravel in place. (Ken points out that residents who live in areas where the ground will heave from frequent freezing and thawing, should dig the ditch somewhat deeper--about six inches-- to create a firmly compacted bed.) Finally, level the soil for drainage.

Now it's time to put the borders (referred to as the header board) of the path in place. For this step, Nancy recommends using a composite synthetic wood material like that shown here, since it won't rot or be harmed by termites. Once this is done, wood stakes are hammered into the ground every two feet on the outside edges of the path. These reach about three inches above the top of the header board, and are secured to it with galvanized deck screws.

Then, landscape fabric is laid down over the path area to discourage weeds, along with poultry mesh that will keep out burrowing rodents that might try to dig up the path.

Next, a one-and-a-half-inch layer of "road base" (the sub-base used in roads) is laid in place on the paths. The Class 2 mix used here is available in building supply yards. Once in place, water is applied to the road base, which is then compacted with a vibrating compactor (these can be rented for about $65 per day), creating a firm sub-layer that won't sink over time.

After another layer of road base, a thin veneer of gravel is laid in place. It is "crowned" using a rake, making it slightly higher in the middle (lower along the sides) to encourage proper drainage.

Step Three: Installing the Irrigation

Landscape contractor Robert Martinez of Vista Landscaping installs the watering system, beginning with the timer and valves. Although he says the overall installation can be successfully completed by an average homeowner, he says those with less building experience should leave this part to the pros.

Figure F

Martinez recommends selecting valves with as many settings as possible for more options and a timer with different programs (figure F).

Figure G

Once the valves are in place, the rest is quite simple. Use PVC glue to attach the main 1/2" supply hose to the valve system, making sure there are no more than 300 water emitters per line. (Otherwise, water pressure will get too low.) The line should "snake" between plants for best results (figure G).

Figure H

Then, Martinez attaches 1/4" tubing to water each separate plant. He uses a hole punch tool and basic connectors called transfer bars to attach these to the main hose, simply pressing each one firmly in place. Then, he snaps on pressure-regulated emitters to each individual tube (figure H)--these release different amounts of water for plants with varying water requirements. (Tip: Open the valve and flush the line before snapping on the emitter to keep sand or dirt from clogging the line.)

Step Four: Planting Plan

To get the planting plan started, Nancy begins designating areas for the chosen plants. (She explains that young plants, still small in size, were purchased partly for their lower cost and partly because they will be healthier if they can grow to maturity on the site.)

Cork oak tree (Quercus suber), Zones 7-9 is planted near the fence. Its patterned bark adds an attractive texture to the landscape.

Loropetalum 'Plum Delight', Zones 8-9, is added to give color to the landscape year-round. Although it's not hardy, it will be fine in this mild climate; a good cold climate substitute is the Camellia sasanqua 'Setsugekka', Zones 7-9. This plant is a great source of color during times when most other plants have faded.

Helleborus orientalis, Zones 4-9 is a beautiful, early-blooming plant that makes a great addition to this country-style planting plan.